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When curating a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred venues. But, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a distant part of north London.

An Surprise Honour

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The honour has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” says the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small restaurant earning such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.